ORIGIN SERIES: COLOMBIA

Origin Series delves into coffee growing regions around the world and turns you into a knowledgeable coffee snob. Heading over to Colombia, to explore the complexity of one of the world's leading coffee growing region.

Coffee was introduced to Colombia in the early 18th century by Jesuit missionaries, who recognized the region's potential for coffee cultivation due to its fertile soil and diverse climate.
Despite its early arrival, coffee production did not become widespread until the late 19th century, thanks to its first exportations of coffee to the United States in 1835 and the completion of the Panama canal.

By the early 20th century, coffee had become Colombia's main export, deeply embedding itself into the nation’s economy and culture. Colombian coffee was grown in large-scale farms, called haciendas. When the Great Depression hit the world in the 1920s and 1930s, many haciendas went bankrupt. The establishment of the National Federation of Coffee Growers of Colombia (Federación Nacional de Cafeteros) in 1927 by a group of prominent coffee producers played a crucial role in supporting smallholder farmers, negotiating fairer prices and promoting Colombian coffee on the global stage. In addition, the Colombian government intervened , purchasing the haciendas, separating them into smaller plots of land and selling them to workers to grow coffee or other crops, saving abandoned land.

The industry became synonymous with quality, symbolized by the iconic figure of Juan Valdez displayed as a trademark on bags of Colombian coffee beans, who represents the hardworking Colombian coffee farmer. Today, Colombia supplies around 12 percent of the world’s arabica, making it the second arabica producer in the world.

 

Colombia's coffee is now predominantly grown on small, family-owned farms, often located on steep, terraced mountainsides, mostly in the shade. The country's diverse geography, with its three Andean Mountain ranges peaking around 2,000 masl, creates a variety of microclimates ideal for cultivating Arabica coffee.

Colombia is one of very few countries with two yearly harvests: the main one running from October to February, and a secondary one from May to August. The cherries are typically handpicked to ensure that only the ripest are harvested, a labour-intensive process that contributes to the high quality of the beans.

Traditionally, Colombian coffee has been predominantly processed using the washed (or wet) method, which helps develop the coffee's clean, bright acidity and complex flavours. Today, Colombia is at the forefront of innovative processing methods. Farmers are experimenting with natural, honey and anaerobic processing, pushing the boundaries of what coffee can taste like, making Colombia one of the most sought-after and represented origin in coffee competitions across the world.

 

Colombia's coffee-growing regions are scattered across the country, spreading over 914,000 ha over 5 main zones and 19 sub-regions.

North: sitting further away from the equator, the sub-regions in the North of Colombia (Santander, Norte de Santander, La Guajira, Magdalena and Cesar) present growing conditions similar to Central America, with higher temperatures and lower altitudes. This leads to less acidic coffees, with a more pronounced body and notes of chocolate.

Central North & Central South: the historical Colombian coffee-triangle, it encompasses the largest producing regions of Colombia: Antioquia (2^nd largest and one of the oldest) and Tolima (3^rd largest). The Central regions are home to 263,000 producers, who harvest the cherries twice a year. Expect bright acidity and a lot of sweetness, reminiscent of panela (raw cane sugar).

South: Home to the sub-regions of Cauca, Huila and Narino, the South of Colombia is becoming the new triangle of Colombian coffee production. Closer to the equator, it displays lower temperature and higher altitudes, ideal for growing high-quality specialty-grade coffee. The slower maturation of the sugars in the coffee cherries means much brighter acidity and complex sweetness. Huila is a particularly revered origin within the specialty coffee industry.

East: The smallest zone, with only 5,500 producers. Falling victim to conflicts in the past, the region is a high-priority for the Colombian Coffee Growers Federation, which is focused on helping farmers grow their farm size and growing varieties better suited to the local climate.

Colombia is home to several Arabica coffee varieties, each contributing to the country's reputation for producing high-quality coffee. In the last few decades, Cenicafe, Colombia’s National coffee research institute, has been doing extensive research in hybridisation of coffee varieties, to create disease-resistant cultivars that still taste delicious.

The most common varieties found in Colombia include:

Typica: One of the oldest and most traditional varieties, Typica is known for its excellent cup quality, with bright acidity, medium body, and clean, sweet flavours.

Bourbon: A classic variety, Bourbon is valued for its complex flavours, including bright acidity, medium body, fruity notes. The yield is 20% to 30% higher than Typica.

Caturra: A natural mutation of Bourbon, Caturra is prized for its high yield and ability to thrive at high altitudes. It produces coffee with bright acidity, a medium body, and balanced flavours.

Castillo: Developed by the Colombian Coffee Federation to resist coffee leaf rust, Castillo is known for its high yield and cup quality, with flavours of citrus, chocolate, and red fruit.

Tabi: A hybrid of Bourbon, Typica and Timor (a robusta hybrid), this cultivar was created in 2002 to combat leaf rust. Tabi means ‘good’ in the Guambiano dialect of a native Colombian tribe.  

Geisha: Though not native to Colombia, Geisha has gained popularity in recent years for its exceptional quality. Known for its floral and jasmine notes, bright acidity, and tea-like body, Geisha is often used in premium, high-altitude coffees.

 

The growing region, varieties and processing methods are so diverse in Colombia that it’s impossible to narrow it down to a single flavour profile, although common tasting notes include bright citrus or stone fruit acidity, caramel or raw sugar sweetness for highly grown beans, and chocolatey, caramel, nutty and berry notes for lower-grown cherries.

Experimental processing methods have brought an array of new tasting notes. Natural, honey and anaerobic processes have emphasised sweetness and tropical notes, as well as bringing a bit more funky, winey flavours and thicker body.